Michelin puts London's pubs on the map
London now has a pub scene that can hold its own against white-tablecloth dining, and Michelin agrees. The guide has spotlighted 10 pubs across the capital for cooking that’s polished, seasonal, and gutsy—served in rooms where the bar still matters and the beer lines stay clean. From Stoke Newington down to Richmond, these places prove you don’t need a hushed dining room to eat memorably.
The headline act is Fulham’s Harwood Arms, still the city’s only Michelin-starred pub. It’s the clearest sign yet of how far the genre has come: a place where venison, rabbit, and other game are handled with confidence, but the spirit remains pubby—no fuss for the sake of it, no tasting-menu theatrics. Plates arrive with bold flavors and tidy presentation, but the main ingredient stays front and center. Sundays are a calling card, and bookings vanish fast.
Michelin’s focus here is not about trend-chasing. Inspectors look for the same fundamentals they use everywhere: quality of ingredients, balance and depth of flavor, the chef’s personality in the food, value for money, and consistency. In these pubs, that translates to menus that can pivot from a terrific pie or roast to a finely judged seasonal plate, paired with a serious wine list and pints poured with care.
The appeal is that these kitchens don’t try to reinvent the wheel. They keep things approachable—sturdy snacks, comforting mains, roasts worth traveling for—but push the detail: proper stocks and sauces, perfect pastry, fish cooked just right, and greens that taste like someone actually cared. That’s the throughline across the guide’s picks, even as each pub brings its own character to the table.
The Michelin Guide London pubs selection spans different neighborhoods and styles, but the pattern is clear: a return to British ingredients, game when it’s in season, cuts that reward slow cooking, and desserts that respect tradition (think custards and puddings done well). You’ll also find better wine lists than most pubs used to carry, with by-the-glass options that make midweek dinners feel special without wrecking your budget.
Where to eat now: eight standouts and what to expect
Here are the pubs name-checked by the guide, each bringing its own take on elevated pub food while keeping the atmosphere relaxed.
- The Harwood Arms (Fulham) – The city’s sole Michelin-starred pub and a standard-bearer for modern British cooking in a pub setting. Expect game-led dishes when in season, shimmering sauces, and roasts that fill the room with a buzz. The cooking is disciplined, the flavors full-on, and the room still feels like a local. Book early for weekends; solo bar seats can be a smart play.
- The Hero (Maida Vale, Bib Gourmand) – Known for comfort classics with a deft touch, this Bib Gourmand signals strong value. Think generous terrines, robust roasts, and the kind of chips that set the bar for everyone else. Lively downstairs bar, calmer dining spaces upstairs; it’s a neighborhood fixture that rewards repeat visits.
- Bull & Last (Highgate) – A North London stalwart that balances hearty cooking with a chef’s precision. The menu leans seasonal—game, wild mushrooms, proper puddings—without drifting from its pub roots. Expect friendly service, a keen wine list, and a Sunday session that often books out weeks ahead. Dog walkers slide in after the Heath; the vibe’s very London.
- Marksman (Hackney) – Unflashy from the outside, serious inside. Known for masterful pies, beef cooked with restraint, and desserts with backbone (the brown butter tart has a cult following). Menus read simple, but the cooking is tight. A go-to for diners who want comfort with clear technique.
- Pig and Butcher (Islington) – Nose-to-tail thinking with a big-hearted pub atmosphere. Meats are the star: slow braises, properly rested steaks, and Sunday roasts that showcase butchery skills. Expect generous portions and a crowd that mixes families, couples, and after-work regulars. Reservation strategy: aim off-peak or commit early.
- The Baring (Islington/De Beauvoir) – A fresher face with a focused menu that changes often. Plates get lift from smart seasoning and sharp sauces; vegetables get as much care as the meat. The room’s intimate, the staff know the list, and the cooking shows confidence without swagger. Strong midweek option when you want dinner to feel easy but special.
- The Clarence Tavern (Stoke Newington) – Comfort-first cooking with Mediterranean edges and a proper Sunday game. Expect plates to share, roasts with punchy jus, and wines that make you want to settle in for the evening. It’s the kind of place where locals celebrate everything from birthdays to ‘we made it through Tuesday.’
- The Devonshire (Soho) – A central London newcomer that behaves like an old soul: impeccable steak from the grill, classic sauces, and a pub bar that’s always heaving. Downstairs is raucous; upstairs, the dining room runs like clockwork. The craft is in the basics—char, seasoning, resting—and it shows on the plate.
Note that Michelin’s roundup covers 10 pubs citywide; the names above are among the standouts called out by the guide. The spread matters. It means a serious meal is just as likely in a north London boozer as in a smart West End room. And it’s not about chasing novelty—menus are grounded, prices are competitive for the quality, and the atmosphere stays defiantly un-stuffy.
What to know before you go? Sundays require planning everywhere on this list; get in early or be ready to perch at the bar. Peak times fill quickly, but weekday evenings can be a sweet spot for walk-ins. Mains typically sit in the mid-£20s at many of these pubs, with roasts a touch higher; Bib Gourmand spots signal especially strong value across three courses.
One more point: the drinks matter. You’ll see cask alongside craft, thoughtful low- and no-alcohol options, and wine lists that treat by-the-glass pours seriously. Staff can usually talk you through pairings without any of the old-school sommelier fuss. It’s hospitality that feels neighborly, not staged.
If you’re choosing by mood, think like this. Want the full Michelin gloss in a pub setting? Harwood Arms. Craving roasts and comfort with change-from-£100 for two if you order smart? The Hero or Bull & Last. After a central London buzz with steak and a proper pint? The Devonshire. If you’re chasing a seasonal menu that shifts weekly, The Baring or The Clarence Tavern deliver the most surprises.
London’s pub dining wave isn’t peaking; it’s maturing. Chefs are betting on British produce—game, native seafood, farm veg—and letting technique do the quiet work. Michelin’s latest nods don’t just reward that; they encourage more of it. And for diners, it means the city’s best meal of the week might happen at a wooden table under a chalkboard, with a pint glass sweating beside the cutlery. Hard to argue with that.